Road to Hana

The road to Hana is 1.5 to 2 lanes for most of the way, 2-direction traffic with many blind corners. It is about 35 miles to Hana from Paia but Kipahului is about 10 more miles beyond that. There were many one-lane bridges, watch out for oncoming traffic. There were also many roadside waterfalls, as evidenced by cars illegally parked along the already narrow corners. We only stopped at one such roadside waterfall where safe parking was available. Look out for people crossing the road at these roadside waterfalls.

My son got carsick. I would have been if I wasn't holding on for dear life and looking out as far as I could for oncoming vehicles around every corner. Drivers in the back can get impatient and will honk if they want to pass you even if you're not the lead car. We learned that we were expected to pull over at the nearest pullout to let them pass, and they will do this until they get past the lead car, even if the lead car is 5 cars ahead.

Paia

Baldwin Beach Park is a beautiful white sand beach on the eastern side of Maui before the start of the road to Hana. There are some trees along the beach for shade. A Park Ranger said that sea turtles are sometimes spotted here, but we did not see any on this trip. It was a nice quiet beach to sit and watch the waves while the boys played by the waters edge.

Walking along the white sand beach of Baldwin Beach, Maui, HI
Walking along the white sand beach of Baldwin Beach, Maui, HI

Waiʻanapanapa State Park

We stayed one night along the Road to Hana at Waiʻanapanapa State Park, located just before the town of Hana. Camping is group style where you park your car closeby and pitch your tent at your favorite flat grassy spot. There was a small cemetery nearby along the shores.

There were about 20 tents total. We arrived around 5:30pm and found about 10 tents already up. I got our camp permits online which cost $20 for non-residents. Our permits were checked by state park staff in the evening. Cabins are also available but none were available when I booked two months before. There was potable water and flush toilets here, though not the cleanest. The website claims that there are showers but the only ones we saw were outdoor open showers. I was glad we carried wet-ones.

Wai'anapanapa Campground along the Road to Hana, Maui, HI
Wai'anapanapa Campground along the Road to Hana, Maui, HI

We slept to sounds of waves crashing below and caught sunrise over the black lava rock headlands. We tried to stargaze but our fellow campers had bright lights which made star gazing a challenge. There was a small black sand beach just a short walk from the campground.

Sunset of Lava Headlands at Wai'anapanapa Campground along the Road to Hana, Maui, HI
Sunset of Lava Headlands at Wai'anapanapa Campground along the Road to Hana, Maui, HI

Practical Information (as of June 2019): Waiʻanapanapa State Park

Features: Sleep under the stars on an ocean cliff near a black sand beach while being serenaded by the sounds of crashing waves
Fees: Campground: $20/night
Website Waiʻanapanapa State Park

Kipahulu

Kipahulu is part of Haleakala Crater NP. Annual National Parks pass gains you free entry (also free entry if you paid for entrance into Haleakala summit, Haleakala NP receipts should work if within 3 days). Pipiwai Trail is part of Kipahului. There is a free campground at Kipahulu as well, with No potable water and No flush toilets.

The highlight of the Pipiwai Trail for me, is a walk through an almost mile-long bamboo forest to get to the base of Waimoku Falls. When there is a breeze, the bamboo trunks clank against each other, producing a tune. There were a few other waterfalls along the way. This was a hot and humid hike but it was cool when under the bamboo forest. Along the way there is some information on the Hawaiians who lived there over 200 years ago.

Walking through the clanking bamboo forest, Kipahulu, Haleakala NP, Maui, HI
Walking through the clanking bamboo forest, Kipahulu, Haleakala NP, Maui, HI

Found a gnarly banyan tree on our waterfall hike, Kipahulu, Haleakala NP, Maui, HI
Found a gnarly banyan tree on our waterfall hike, Kipahulu, Haleakala NP, Maui, HI

Seven pools were beautiful to look at. There were many waterfalls, probably seven, falling into pools below before eventually emptying into the ocean below. There was a fatality in the pools the week before our arrival. We were warned on our way into the Park by National Park Service that swimming was Not allowed in the park.

Some of the waterfall pools in Kipahulu, Haleakala NP, Maui, HI
Some of the waterfall pools in Kipahulu, Haleakala NP, Maui, HI

Practical Information (as of June 2019): Kipahulu:

Features: The other side of Haleakala National Park, very lush flora growing through volcanic remnants along the coast
Our Hike: Pipiwai Trail + 7 sacred pools trail: about 5 miles return
Fees: $30 per 3 days for private vehicles. FREE with America the Beautiful Annual Pass ($80), Receipts from other side of Haleakala NP are valid in Kipahulu
Website: Haleakala National Park